Journal
Sourcing, explained.
Long reads on shirts, cloth, quality and responsibility, written by the people who do the work.
Resources
The glossary.
The words a buyer meets between tech pack and shipment, defined plainly.
AQL
Acceptable Quality Limit. A sampling standard (ISO 2859-1) that sets how many defects are allowed in a random sample before a shipment fails inspection.
Bartack
A short, dense block of stitches that reinforces stress points such as pocket corners.
Chambray
Plain-weave cloth with a dyed warp and white weft, usually indigo.
Collar stand
The band that rises from the neckline and carries the collar.
Corozo
Buttons carved from the tagua nut. Dense, natural and dyeable.
Count
The thickness of a yarn. In the English cotton count system a higher number means a finer yarn.
End-on-end
Plain weave with coloured and white warp ends alternating.
Felled seam
A seam where the raw edges are folded into each other and stitched down twice.
Fusing
Bonding interlining to cloth with heat and pressure to give collars and cuffs structure.
GSM
Grams per square metre. The standard measure of fabric weight.
Herringbone
A broken twill that reverses direction in columns, forming a chevron.
Incoterms
ICC trade terms, such as FOB and CIF, that set who pays for and carries risk on a shipment.
Interlining
A layer inside collars, cuffs and plackets that gives shape.
Lab dip
A small dyed swatch submitted for colour approval before bulk dyeing.
MOQ
Minimum order quantity per style or colour.
Oxford
A basket-weave shirting with a soft, textured surface.
Piqué
A textured knit with a raised honeycomb surface, used for polo shirts.
Placket
The strip of cloth carrying the buttons and buttonholes.
Poplin
A tightly woven plain-weave cloth with a smooth, crisp surface.
PP sample
Pre-production sample, signed off as the reference for bulk.
Sanforisation
Controlled compressive shrinking that reduces shrinkage after washing.
SPI
Stitches per inch. A higher, even count generally means flatter, stronger seams.
Strike-off
A print sample on the actual fabric, approved before bulk printing.
Tech pack
The technical document describing a garment: sketches, measurements, materials and construction.
Twill
A weave with a stepped pattern that forms diagonal lines.
Two-ply
Two single yarns twisted together, written as 2/100s. Stronger and smoother than single-ply.
Yoke
The panel across the upper back of a shirt.
ZLD
Zero liquid discharge. Dye-house water is treated and recovered, with no liquid released.
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