01The cloth comes first
Fine shirting starts with fine yarn. Cotton count describes thickness: a higher number means a finer yarn. Two-ply cloth, written as 2/100s or 2/120s, twists two fine yarns together for a smoother surface, better strength and a drape single-ply cloth rarely matches at the same weight.
02Shrinkage is controlled before cutting
Cloth is tested for shrinkage and, where needed, sanforised before a single panel is cut. A shirt that shrinks a size in the first wash was lost at this stage.
03Stripes meet where panels meet
On a striped or checked shirt, look at the pocket, the placket, the yoke and the sleeve plackets. On a fine shirt the pattern runs through them without a break.
04A split yoke follows the shoulders
Cutting the back yoke in two halves lets each side follow the slope of a shoulder and, on patterned cloth, sets the stripes at a subtle angle that reads as tailoring.
05Stitch density is high and even
Premium shirts are generally sewn at around 18 to 22 stitches per inch. Denser stitching lies flatter and resists puckering. Evenness matters as much as the number.
The best shirts are sewn one seam at a time, and it shows after the fiftieth wash.
06Side seams are single-needle and felled
A felled seam folds the raw edges inside one another and stitches them down, clean on both faces. Sewing each row with a single needle takes longer and lies flatter.
07Side gussets reinforce the tails
Small triangular gussets where the side seams end absorb the strain of sitting and tucking.
08The collar rolls rather than folds
A good collar curves softly around the neck. The interlining, fused or floating, is chosen for the style: fused for crisp formal collars, softer for relaxed ones.
09Collar points are symmetrical
Lay a fine shirt flat and the two points match in length and angle. It is one of the most common faults in average shirts.
10The collar stand fits the neck
The stand’s height and curve decide whether the collar sits cleanly under a jacket. Its buttonhole runs horizontally to take neck strain.
11Buttons are thick, real and sewn to last
Mother-of-pearl and corozo buttons are thicker and cooler to the touch than plastic. Cross-stitching and a thread shank let each one fasten without strain.
12Buttonholes are dense and cleanly cut
On a fine shirt the stitches are tight, the cut is clean and no fibres poke out.
13Cuffs and sleeve plackets are finished properly
A small gauntlet button keeps the sleeve opening closed. Cuffs hold their shape because their interlining matches the collar.
14Pressing, folding and final inspection
Careful pressing, correct folding and final inspection to an agreed AQL make a shirt arrive the way it left the table.