Wovens division

A shirt is forty small decisions.

Collar roll, stitch density, the pattern match at the yoke, the thickness of a button. Buyers notice some. Wearers feel all of them.

Construction

Anatomy of a Dean shirt.

01 Collar +

Points symmetrical in length and angle. Interlining chosen so the collar rolls rather than folds.

02 Collar stand +

Cut to sit cleanly under a jacket. Horizontal buttonhole to take neck strain.

03 Split yoke +

Two halves across the back, each following the slope of a shoulder.

04 Buttons +

Mother-of-pearl or corozo, cross-stitched with a thread shank.

05 Pocket +

Pattern matched to the body and bartacked at the top corners.

06 Placket +

Straight, flat and matched to the front panels.

07 Sleeve placket +

Finished with a small gauntlet button.

08 Cuff +

Interlining matched to the collar so both keep their shape.

09 Side seam +

Single-needle and felled, at around 18 to 22 stitches per inch.

10 Hem and gussets +

Curved tails, a narrow rolled hem and small side gussets.

Our own label · Since 2014

We make shirts for others.
And we wear our own.

Tarrit is the in-house menswear label of our wovens division. Its shirts come off the same tables, to the same construction standards, as every programme we make for our clients. When a brand asks how our shirts wear, we point them to Tarrit.

“Shirts for men who’ve already decided.”

Since

2014

Retail

Two stores and online

Cloth

Giza cotton, cotton, Tencel

Service

Made to measure in store

Construction standards

The benchmark, and our number beside it.

DetailWhat it isFine-shirt benchmarkDean spec
Stitch densityStitches per inch on main seams18 to 22 SPI[SPI]
Side seamsHow the body panels are joinedSingle-needle, felled[Spec]
Pattern matchingStripes and checks aligned across panelsYoke, pocket, placket, sleeves[Spec]
CollarInterlining and constructionFused or floating, chosen per style[Spec]
ButtonsMaterial and attachmentMother-of-pearl or corozo, cross-stitched[Spec]
Final inspectionSampling standardAQL 2.5 major, 4.0 minor[AQL]

Shirting library

Know the cloth before you choose it.

Each swatch is drawn from its weave structure. Ranges are typical for the cloth.

Poplin

Tight, smooth and crisp. The formal shirt’s default for good reason.

Plain weave Typical 2/80s to 2/140s 90 to 120 GSM

Oxford

Coloured warp, white weft, a soft pebbled surface that ages beautifully.

Basket weave Typical 40s to 60s 120 to 160 GSM

Twill

A fine diagonal rib that drapes well and resists creasing.

2/1 twill Typical 2/80s to 2/120s 100 to 140 GSM

Herringbone

Twill that reverses direction in columns for a subtle chevron.

Broken twill Typical 2/80s to 2/120s 110 to 140 GSM

End-on-end

Coloured and white warp ends alternate, reading as a soft solid.

Plain weave Alternating warp 100 to 120 GSM

Chambray

Indigo warp across white weft. Denim’s lighter cousin.

Plain weave Dyed warp, white weft 110 to 150 GSM

Linen

Irregular slubs, a cool hand and a crumple that is part of the charm.

Plain weave Linen or linen-cotton 130 to 180 GSM

Flannel

Twill brushed until the weave softens into a warm, raised surface.

Brushed twill Brushed both sides 150 to 200 GSM

Capacity

What the wovens floor can take on.

Pieces per month [N pcs]
Minimum order [N pcs / style]
Lead time [N days]